Dining Out
Flavor to the Third Power
Trilogy spares nothing in its pursuit of taste-bud happiness.
By Chelle Koster Walton
Remembering Chef Ross Peterson from his Roy’s and Syrah days, I expected that my dinner-out splurge might be on the healthy side, but quickly banished such notions. The Asian influence still peeks through, but Peterson’s new Trilogy (at the former Zoë’s location) is all about indulgence.
Having cast aside any thoughts of being good, I plunged right in with the Tri-Tini. Three miniature martini glasses (meaning the size that was once standard) brought tastes of quality vodka and liqueur in flavors of vanilla, mandarin and melon. My partner and I shared them as we tussled over a menu of too many too-good choices. It starts with Lite Bites—could be appetizers, could be main courses—from Grilled Wicked Shrimp with gorgonzola cream and slab of artisanal imported bacon to lobster mac and cheese, and wild-mushroom escargot sauté, which we selected. Served in a rustic pot and with a peppercorn sauce over a dollop of mashed potatoes, it was wonderfully exotic comfort food. The escargots remained tender, but if you’re a true lover of that inimitable snail taste, you’ll miss it in this ragout-fashion treatment.
Next, we chose a duck confit and roasted beet salad with arugula and goat cheese dressing. Everything worked in this dish—the beets a sweet counterpoint to the earthiness of it all. The cheese took command of the dressing with a melting creaminess.
We skipped the Soup, Chowder & Flatbreads portion of the menu, begrudgingly. It lists three-onion soup, conch chowder and three flatbreads, including pulled BBQ pork and coleslaw. We also stayed clear of the Pasta Alla Minute and Butcher Block sections, although our server highly recommended the pork chop with chorizo polenta and Calvados demi from the latter.
For a glance at the additional features and departments in this issue, visit our Table of Contents.
Please click the link to purchase the current issue, back issues or to subscribe. The circulation department may also be reached at 561-472-1910.
